Zac Posen Inspired by Kelly and Khan
Focusing on sculptured evening looks instead of the flamboyant ballgowns he is known for, Zac Posen’s collection for the Fall/Winter 2015 season hearkened back to the glamour of the 1970s, specifically “the elegance of Grace Kelly and the spice of Chaka Khan.” Across a palette of black, plum, orange and grey, Posen showed that sophisticated evening-wear wasn’t just limited to mermaid dresses or A-line gowns, it was almost a crash course of draping, pleating and combining fabrics in order to create looks for different sentiments. As such, the transition between pieces were subtle, and ever came off as costume-like.
Standout pieces included a pleated saffron-yellow gown with a matching mink top, a plum body-conscious number adorned with bugle beads, and multiple black skater dresses with cape sleeves. Waist cutouts were used as well, capturing the flirtatious and fun nature that was 1970s disco.
Posen discussed his creative process in a July 2014 interview with Interviewly.com: “My process starts with emotional interpretive draping. It’s my dance with the human body…generally guided by the fabrications which were chosen or created months in advance. From there we go into making a mockup ‘muslin’ of the piece.”
The show closed with a voluminous plum ball gown worn by Naomi Campbell, which reminded viewers Posen’s trademark aesthetic. However, with this new turn towards a boldly creative chapter in his career, women will be excited by this glamorous, yet well-sculptured clothing.